Making Mistakes
When I first started getting interested in classically inspired #menswear, I immediately went out and hit the suit and jacket section at Value Village. I was gung-ho to change my style and getting some jackets seemed like a quick and easy way to do so.
This monstrosity is what I came back with. I knew I should get wool. I checked the tag and made sure it was wool. In fact, it’s actually really nice, soft wool. I put it on and thought it fit. I made the purchase. If I recall, it was $12.99.
I now realize that this is wrong in so many ways. First, is the three buttons. Three button jackets are certainly not out of the question. They are currently less fashionable, but they remain a viable option, worn either as a true three button, or pressed into a 3/2 roll. However, with a true three button jacket, one needs to be very careful with the proportions. If can If this were the only problem with the jacket, I’d maybe try to make it work. Of course, it is not the only problem.
The jacket is ventless. There is currently a debate on Style Forum as to status of ventless jackets. Although they are standard on tuxedos, a lack of vents is more controversial for other jackets. Some on SF insist that the style has been around a long time and remains a viable option, if used correctly. They point to the classic, and ventless, jacket worn by Carey Grant in North-by-Northwest as one of the most iconic suits in cinema. Others insist ventless jackets were a horrible fashion mistake and a sure signal that the wearer does not know what they are doing. I think the rear shot shows why they are a bad idea. A lack of vents makes it extremely awkward to put your hand in your pocket. The entire jacket twists, which makes the jacket look bad, but also pulls and twists at your pants as well [1].
But, the biggest problem is the terrible fit. The shoulders are at least an inch and a half too wide. They are much wider than the shoulders on a jacket I posted earlier, and which I think might be too wide in the shoulders. Because it is too big, it is difficult to judge if this jacket could have worked as either a true three button or 3/2 roll. The first rule of thrifting jackets is to make sure they fit across the shoulders. Since that first trip to Value Village, I’ve put on hundreds of jackets, many that fit well and many the fit terribly. Now, when I’m thrifting, the moment I put my arm in one sleeve, I can tell if the shoulders are too wide. If I were pulling this jacket off the rack today, I wouldn’t even bother sliding it across my back and onto my other arm.
I don’t regret getting the jacket. It was part of my learning process, and it was a relatively cheap mistake. The only reason you should be embarrassed when you make a mistake is if you keep repeating the same mistake. This jacket was a misstep in my style evolution, but one that will ultimately help me get nearer to my goal.
[1] Although, these pictures make me realize that these jeans are already getting too big in the waist and seat on me.
