evolving style

Fitting

Ah, the benefits of losing weight. I had to stow this Cantarelli jacket when I gained too much weight to wear it without excessive strain at the button point. 

I’m undecided if the wool knit tie is too incoherent with the warm weather jacket. I just can’t stomach saying good-bye to all my burgundy ties for the season.

Fitting

This suit was absent from my rotation for a while. Why? I got too fat to wear it. Simple as that. I’d been putting on weight for a while, mostly due to stress eating. I quietly consigned the suit to the closet, with a slight bit of shame, but not changing my eating habits. The turning point came when my neck got too fat to comfortably button up my pink Brooks Brothers OCBD. I finally acknowledged that I needed to make a change. 

So, about six weeks and 30lbs later, the shirt fits and the tweed suit will be a short-lived part of my cool spring wardrobe.

I put this together acknowledging that Toronto is having a cool spring, but with the flowery pocket square to represent my hope for warmer days, even though that’ll mean the suit will again be out of rotation, although this time for happier reasons.

Combinations

I haven’t been posting many wiwt shots lately, in part because I’ve been choosing to stay casual or wearing redundant outfits. I decided to post this one because I’m particularly pleased with the combination of colours, textures and patterns in this outfit.

The suit is quite boldly checked, although the checks are hard to discern from a distance. The colour is also an unusual gray-blue. It wouldn’t work in almost any office setting. As a casual suit, I felt comfortable with the button-down collar. I also thought the wool knit tie worked well with both the pink shirt and the blue-gray of the suit. This knit tie also has a really nice texture to it. Since the tie is matte, I decided to throw in a silk pocket square.

Neither the shirt nor the tie has a pattern, so I wanted to include one in the pocket square. However, this is sort of a tricky proposition. On the one hand, the pattern of the suit is quite large. Yet, the multiple overlapping checks actually create the impression of a fairly small pattern. I thought the bold, pink polka dots of the pocket square fit into the middle ground between the impression of both big and small patterns contained in the suit.

The suit is thrifted Aquascutum.

The tie is eBay’d Lands End.

The shirt is Brooks Brothers ESF, bought on sale.

Wearing patterns

Three patterns plus a bold texture. The pattern on the suit is very, very subtle while that of the shirt and pocket square are much bolder, which is why I think it works. I’m not sure if ‘bold’ is the right way to describe the texture of the tie, but I’m also not sure what adjective would be more appropriate.

Finding me

I have lots to say about these outfits.

First, they do not suit me. I’m not sure exactly how to phrase my feelings about these combinations. Are they too preppy? Too staid? Too… I’m not sure. I think I could make any of the pieces appropriate as part of a different outfit, but together, they just don’t convey who I am. It’s the navy jacket, khaki pants combination in particular. I see this classic combination come across my dash and it looks good; on other people. But, in trying to emulate it, it’s not me. I don’t wear it with comfort because I don’t think it gives a proper impression of who I am, and who I’m trying to be.

I’m finding myself increasingly attracted to two style poles: 1) casual grounded by denim and 2) full suits. I’m hoping I can bridge the two poles so it does not appear that I’m wildly oscillating with uncertain style. For the former, I’m trying to bring together tailored jackets and jeans. For the latter, I’m attracted to more casual suits, such as tweeds or strong patterns. However, I’m not sure where to situate chinos and tailored jackets. It always feels more proper and sedate than my actual personality. When I see myself in this outfit, I feel like I’m wearing someone else’s clothes.

Second, the single breasted jacket is a cotton Lands’ End tailor fit that I’m going to return. If you look at the shoulders you can see how they are forming unsightly peaks. Unfortunately, the shoulders just do not fit. The shoulder width is good, but their shape would suit someone with more muscular shoulders than myself. I tried to live with it, since I really want a cotton navy jacket, and with their recent sale, at $70, it was a great, affordable option. But, I had to admit that I was constantly aware of the bunching and gaping around the shoulders.

Third, I really like the light blue of the shirt and tie, and think they work decently well as part of the outfit, although I have a hard time registering it within the context of the navy and khaki failing me.

Fourth, the buttons on the double breasted are wood. I swapped out the brass buttons, as I also find they are not me. More on that later, I promise (not that anyone’s waiting).

Pattern Mixing

This would be destroyed by the Style Forum community. There is a trope over there that pulling off denim and tailored jackets is next to impossible. Also, what the hell am I doing wearing desert boots with a double breasted jacket? I’m experimenting. 

Recently, I’ve been greatly informed by the ‘coherent combinations’ thread that I’ve posted about. But, today I decided to make a wild departure from that. I’ve put together four patterns, trying to be cognizant of mixing scale. I do not have enough options in my wardrobe to play with textures and materials as much as I might have liked.

On the bottom I’ve gone totally casual. I think it looks pretty great, although others might think it incoherent.

Tweeding or Receiving

This is the tweed suit again, but with a different shirt and tie.

The tie is worth special mention, because it was given to me by the excellent SotF. Trent recently posted a pile ties he was getting rid of. I messaged him noting interest in several of the ties. He ended up sending them to me, and refusing any sort of compensation.

There are good people among the #menswear Tumblratti. 

Wearing tweed

I was so excited when this ebay win arrived. First and most importantly, the jacket fit amazingly well. The pants were too short, but there was enough material for them to be let down (although without enough to add a cuff). Beyond the fit, the details of the jacket are spot on: side vents; hacking pockets; ticket pocket; high gorge.

As an aspiring academic, it’s great to have my first well-fitting tweed suit.

Going grey

I have a lot to say about this Burberry jacket, but I’ll save it for later. Here, I’ve paired it with a grey grenadine that I love, but don’t wear that often, and a grey PRL button-down. Below I’m wearing jeans and AE moc toe chukkas. I originally had on grey pants, but my partner gave it the thumbs down.

Going pink

Is a light pink OCBD as flexible as light blue? At first, I thought not. But, I’m finding myself turning to the pink at least as often as the blue. It coordinates well with blue, which is the basis of my wardrobe. However, it is less conservative, and therefore fits a bit better with my personality.

Formal Friday (yes, I know a bright pink shirt is hardly formal)

I’ve posted about this tie before. I picked it up at a vintage place in London. I could not find any information about who I thought was the maker - Carloni Gaetano. Thanks to Derek over at Die, Workwear, I now know that the tie is made by Personality. A quick search shows you can actually pick up Personality knit ties at Park & Bond, at a serious discount right now; $26 down from $85. However, those ties are only 2” wide. The tie I’m wearing, is more than 3.5”. That means it holds up against the lapels of this Aquascutum suit. It also gives an amazing dimple and drapes beautifully.

I haven’t been wearing it because the stitching at the bottom had come loose. This meant the bottom of the tie, which is folded up inside when the tie is closed, would fall down, and look sloppy. I finally stitched it up myself, last night.

Now, about this suit…. What do people think? Is the pattern dated? The fit is great. When I bought it (second-hand) the pants were bordering on bell bottoms. I’ve since had them tapered to a more appropriate fit. I really like it, but have concerns that it screams 70s.

Formal Friday

Fat lapels!

These lapels are too fat. I admit it. Or are they?[1] They’re almost 4.5 inches. However, there is too much to love about this suit. It’s flannel in a beautiful blue-gray colour. I’m thinking of actually seeing if my tailor can narrow these lapels because it doesn’t have a hole in the lapel. The one thing that worries me is there is some very subtle pick stitching that may be lost in the narrowing. 

Like SotF I don’t have to wear a suit. In fact, I mostly work from home, so I could wear pajamas all day. However, I still choose to put on a jacket and tie. I decided that I will flip Casual Friday and actually wear a suit on Friday, even though I’ll be sitting at the desk in my own dining room. 

Because I work from home I can style my suit however the fuck I want. I decided to wear a chambray button-down, with a burgundy wool knit and a burgundy patterned pocket square. Perhaps the most controversial choice is the desert boots. If you work in an office, there is no way you get away with that. Me, however, I only have myself (and the Internets) to impress. 

That garlic will come into play in a subsequent post!

[1] The Odin Spire and A Fistful of Style have both given the thumbs up to the fatness.

Literally dressed by the Internet

A while ago Derek posted this look on PTO. It featured a pair of heavy wool trousers similar to a pair I had at the tailors. I thought that when I got them back, I could use them as the base to a similar outfit. This is the attempt. 

There are a few significant departures. First, this was the best gray jacket option I could do. I tried a few others, but they didn’t work. I really love the blue-gray of the jacket Derek posted. My eyes are always peeled at thrift stores for something similar. Second, I don’t own a brown wool pin dot tie. This is a vintage silk tie in a very loose knit. Third, I also don’t own a pair of suede shoes. I went with a moc toe chukka instead. Finally, I don’t own a green field jacket. I went with this thrifted blue waxed canvas jacket. I also tossed on a toque.

I will definitely wear this out into the wild.

WIWT: 08-11-2011

Of course Kiyoshi is killing it. But, I have a question that pertains to this style of jacket. Is there a name for the stitching along the lapel when it has this prominent, visible appearance?

thesilentist:

Fit details after the jump:

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(Source: thesilentist)